Laboratory study of short-crested breaking waves

Abstract

A series of laboratory experiments was conducted to understand the kinematics and dynamics of short crested breaking waves. The simulation of wave breaking was achieved through wave-wave interactions of a frequency and amplitude modulated wave packet. Directionality and short crestedness were added to the breaking wave packet by varying the amplitude distribution of the wave paddles. The experiments have highlighted the basic features of a short-crested breaker through a series of still and movie pictures. Surface elevations at prescribed locations within the breaking wave field were monitored using wave gauges. Flow visualizations, incorporating digital imaging illuminated by a laser light sheet, were used to elucidate the mixing process.