Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2023.116
Title: Inundation, runup and flow velocity of wavemaker generated bores on a planar beach
Authors: Barranco, Ignacio 
Liu, Philip L-F 
Keywords: Science & Technology
Technology
Physical Sciences
Mechanics
Physics, Fluids & Plasmas
Physics
shallow water flows
wave breaking
coastal engineering
SWASH
DRIVEN
Issue Date: 15-Mar-2023
Publisher: CAMBRIDGE UNIV PRESS
Citation: Barranco, Ignacio, Liu, Philip L-F (2023-03-15). Inundation, runup and flow velocity of wavemaker generated bores on a planar beach. JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS 959. ScholarBank@NUS Repository. https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2023.116
Abstract: Undulating and breaking bores are generated in the laboratory using a programmable long-stroke wavemaker. By changing the stroke length and the speed of the wavemaker, both non-decaying and decaying bores are generated and studied. Bore strength, height and duration are measured and compared with the solutions derived by using the method of characteristics, with excellent agreement. The measurements for inundation depth, runup height and flood duration are checked with the formulas presented in Barranco & Liu (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 915, 2021). The comparisons show that the formulas are also accurate for the non-decaying bores generated by the wavemaker. The maximum inundation depth predicted by the formula for zero bore length at the beach toe agrees with the laboratory observations for decaying bores. Using a high-speed particle image velocimetry system, the ensemble-averaged velocities and fluctuating velocities under undulating bores and breaking bores are measured in constant water depth and in the vicinity of the still water shoreline. Detailed analyses of the velocity fields are presented and discussed. For the undulating bore a long quiescent flood duration is observed, while for the breaking bore the up-rush flow changes into down-rush flow almost linearly.
Source Title: JOURNAL OF FLUID MECHANICS
URI: https://scholarbank.nus.edu.sg/handle/10635/241688
ISSN: 0022-1120
1469-7645
DOI: 10.1017/jfm.2023.116
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